The Greeks considered this part of Italy to be the land of milk and honey and remained in the area for over eight centuries leaving behind them the extensive legacy of the vine varieties which make the two provinces of Puglia and Campania so viticulturally exciting today. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, partly subject to the strong winds created by the proximity of the mountains inland, and partly low-lying, hot coastal plain, the resulting wines have a character and depth of flavour all their own. This must be one of the areas where the international varieties have made least progress, allowing us the pleasure of the Primitivo, Aglianico, Fiano, Falanghina and many others. Historically the south is a treasure trove of early Romanesque architecture and history. The generation before William of Normandy came here to carve out their kingdoms, and have left us with the heritage of their spectacular castles and cathedrals, built in the local limestone, bleached blonde by time.
Spring is one of the most delightful times to visit the area, both for the profusion of flowers and lush vegetation and for the wonderful range of vegetables which give the robust cuisine its elegance and flavour.
Itinerary
Monday 9th: Morning departure from London for lunchtime arrival in Bari, where we pick up our local transport for onward journey to the beautiful city of Lecce. We stay in the 4-star Patria Palace Hotel in the centre of Lecce, a comfortable residence in a converted traditional town house, which is an ideal centre for exploring the architectural surprises of the city and is in easy walking distance of cafés and restaurants. Evening tasting and dinner at Tenuta Rubino in the Alto Salentino, the part of the Salentine peninsula close to Brindisi. The winery was founded in the mid 1980s and in its short life has produced some of the finest examples of the Negroamaro as both rich reds and fragrant rosés.
Tuesday 10th: Our first tasting is a short journey to the north-east of Lecce in the wine appellation of Salice Salentino, where we visit Cantine Due Palme. This growers' co-operative is of very high quality and consistently wins gold at international wine competitions. Due to the number of members the range of wines is wide and offers the opportunity to taste some of the more obscure indigenous grape varieties of the region as well as the Cantina's star wines. We will finish our visit with lunch in their new dining room. After lunch we drive over to Copertino, originally famous for its levitating monk, but now better known for its flavoursome red wine from a blend of Negroamaro and Primitivo grapes. Our tasting here is at the Casa Vinicola Apollonio. Founded over a century ago, the quality of its wines has always been admired locally, but it has taken the current generation to bring them to international attention. Early evening return to Lecce with plenty of time to explore and enjoy the evening.
Wednesday 11th: Leisurely drive to Manduria, famous for its individual expression of the Primitivo grape. Here we visit the Feudi San Marzano, founded in 2003 to nurture the precious heritage of ancient vines still producing grapes of high quality. In addition to tasting these fine reds, we will have the opportunity to try their range of delicious, modern whites which are also gaining an international reputation. We then move on to the appellation of Leverano where our hosts, Conti Zecca have been established since the 1500s. We join them for a comprehensive tutored tasting lunch of traditional and modern styles. Return to Lecce late afternoon for evening at leisure.
Thursday 12th, The churches of Bari Province: Today we transfer from Baroque Lecce to Romanesque Trani, via the impressive Romanesque cathedrals in the province of Bari: Bitonto, Ruvo, Molfetta and glorious Trani itself. We break the day's sightseeing with a visit to the Rivera wine estate in Andria for a tasting lunch. Our hotel in Trani is the Hotel San Paolo al Convento, a converted convent, complete with vaulted ceilings and perfectly situated on the harbour in Trani. Evening free.
Friday 13th Castel del Monte: Visit to the vineyards in the triangle between Trani, Barletta and Andria, and those around Emperor Frederick's enigmatic castle. We start with a guided tour of Castel del Monte, a mysterious and fascinating monument that dominates the land around and has given its name to the wine appellation. We drive the short distance to Tormaresca's beautiful Tenuta Bocca di Lupo estate, where we will enjoy our tasting lunch looking over the vines that provided the wines we will be drinking. Our return to Trani will be via the Torrevento estate where the cellars and tasting room are in a converted monastery. Evening return to Trani with time to explore this charming town.
Saturday 14th Transfer to Campania: Early departure for Campania where we will visit the cellars of the Mastroberardino family whose legendary Taurasi red was for decades the lone focal point of exceptional quality, until recently joined by a handful of other fine producers. Foremost amongst them is Feudi di San Gregorio where we will have our tutored tasting followed by dinner in their Michelin starred restaurant. We will make a stop between tastings to settle into the Hotel Civita at Avellino for our overnight stay.
Sunday 15th Pompeii and return to UK: It is a short drive from Avellino to Naples, so there is the opportunity of visiting the ruins at Pompeii (entrance fee not included) before returning to Naples airport for the return flight to Gatwick.